Jewellery art of India: Sparkle of centuries and soul of culture

Imagine holding a golden necklace adorned with rubies. Each stone is not just decoration, but a message from the depths of time.

Indian jewellery is a chronicle written in gold, silver, and precious stones. It tells stories of gods and kings, of love and struggle, of traditions that remain alive to this day. Let’s embark on a journey through the history of Indian jewellery and discover why it is so significant to the country.

Where it all began: the first jewellery

India is one of the cradles of jewellery craftsmanship. The earliest finds date back to the Harappan civilisation (around 3300-1300 BC). Archaeologists have discovered shell bracelets, agate beads, and even gold earrings in the city of Mohenjo-daro. These weren’t just worn for beauty – they served as amulets. For example, bracelets protected against evil spirits, while signet rings were used as personal signatures.

A variety of materials were used to create these ornaments, each carrying not only aesthetic but also symbolic meaning.

• Gold – the metal of the gods, symbolising the sun and immortality. It is even mentioned in the Rigveda – a collection of religious hymns.

• Silver – a symbol of moonlight and purity.

• Precious stones – rubies, emeralds, pearls – were considered "drops of the earth's blood" and were used in rituals.

Interestingly, even in such an ancient era, craftsmen possessed incredibly delicate jewellery-making techniques. For example, granulation – the creation of patterns from tiny gold beads – was already in use.

Styles That Conquered the World

India is a land of contrasts, and its jewellery traditions are equally multifaceted. Three main styles of jewellery continue to inspire modern artisans.

Mughal Luxury: When the Jeweller is a Poet

In the 16th to 19th centuries, under the reign of the Mughal emperors, jewellery art reached incredible heights. Picture emerald pendants the size of pigeon eggs, diamonds cut in the shape of petals, and gold necklaces adorned with rubies.

• What made the Mughals stand out? The Kundan technique – precious stones were set in gold foil, creating the effect of "floating" gemstones.

• Minakari – enamel painting, where each colour has its own meaning (blue represents the sky, green signifies life).

• Sarpesh – a turban comb worn by men. The larger the sarpesh, the higher the status.

South India: Gods, Gold, and Geometry

In the south, in states like Tamil Nadu, jewellery has always been bold and symbolic. Traditional vaddanam – a gold jewellery belt, decorated with carvings, precious stones (such as rubies), and intricate patterns – is still worn today.

A distinctive feature of the local style is the tempera technique – casting with a wax model, which allows for the creation of expressive and voluminous bracelets.

Tribal Jewellery: The Magic of Simplicity

Indian tribes have their own rules. For example, women in Kerala wear silver necklaces with coins, while women in Rajasthan wear ornaments made of gold and glass.

Why is this important? Firstly, jewellery served as protective amulets, carrying deep sacred meanings to safeguard the wearer. Secondly, the quantity and size of jewellery indicated the family’s status and social position, and the pieces themselves were considered a reliable investment. Finally, they symbolised beauty and the blessings of the goddess Lakshmi.

The traditional set of jewellery for Indian women is called Shringar. It includes 16 items, each associated with lunar phases.

Symbols That Speak Without Words

In India, jewellery is a unique language. It can tell you about a person's marital status, religious beliefs, and even their astrological fate. Among the most important pieces are:

• Mangalsutra: a necklace of black beads on a gold chain. This is not just the Indian equivalent of a wedding ring, each bead is believed to protect the husband from death.

• Nath: a nose ring. If you see a woman wearing a nath, she is definitely married.

• Payal: an ankle bracelet that jingles. Its sound drives away evil spirits and reminds the husband that his wife is nearby.

The colour of jewellery in India also carries significant meaning. Red – whether in rubies or corals – symbolises passion, divinity, and marriage. Green, represented by emeralds, is associated with life, nature, and inner happiness. Yellow, most often in the form of gold, signifies knowledge and is linked to Hindu deities.

The Art in the Details: Materials and Techniques

India is a country where the art of handcrafting is still highly valued and passed down through generations. Here lies the magic of craftsmanship.

• Gold and silver are the foundation of jewellery tradition. Gold is more commonly used in the south, while silver is favoured in the Himalayan regions.

• Precious stones are true treasures: Burmese rubies, Kashmir sapphires, and diamonds from the legendary Golconda mines – the very stones that once adorned the crown of the Queen of the United Kingdom.

• Unexpected materials – coloured glass, seashells, plant seeds, and even bells! These were hung around children's necks to ward off evil spirits with their tinkling sound.

Techniques that have survived for centuries continue to impress with their refinement. Filigree or Tarakashi creates intricate patterns from the finest silver threads. Chasing adds depth and symbolism to jewellery through relief images of gods on bracelets. Painted enamel Minakari brings metal to life with vibrant colours.

Cultural Heritage: What Remains in the 21st Century?

Today, Indian jewellery is not just a tradition but a vast industry. However, mass production is gradually overshadowing the art of handcrafting, and it is becoming increasingly difficult to find a craftsman in cities capable of creating authentic Kundan jewellery in the Mughal style.

To preserve this rich heritage, museums are being established. For example, Jaipur houses an entire hall dedicated to the Minakari technique. Festivals are also held: in Rajasthan, artisans compete in ancient crafts.

Additionally, leading Indian designers, including Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Ritu Kumar, and JJ Valaya, are actively incorporating traditional patterns and techniques into their contemporary collections.

Why Is This Important?

Indian jewellery is not just the past. It is a living tradition that evolves but does not disappear. When an Indian bride wears the Maang Tikka (a forehead ornament), she connects with thousands of generations of women before her. Each piece is a bridge between ancient rituals and modern aesthetics.

For example, at this year's largest fashion gala, Indian singer and actor Diljit Dosanjh appeared in traditional royal attire, completing his look with a multi-layered necklace adorned with gemstones and a luxurious emerald in the centre. This look was inspired by Bhupinder Singh, the legendary ruler of the princely state of Patiala.

As Indian writer and poet Rabindranath Tagore once said, "In India, art is a prayer directed towards beauty." Jewellery artisans here still pray with their hands, creating not just pieces but a heritage that can survive for centuries. This is the magic of India.

Would you like to touch this magic? Visit the ethnic districts of New Delhi or Jaipur, there are still workshops where jewellery is made for kings and for us.

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