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31.12.24 16:35
Culture

New Year culinary traditions: how Olivier salad and Herring under fur coat found their way to Russian festive tables

This article delves into the history of legendary dishes that have become an indispensable part of New Year celebrations in Russia

New Year’s Eve is a special holiday for Russians, celebrated with family and friends. Weeks before the event, a festive atmosphere takes over homes as people buy gifts, decorate Christmas trees, and plan their celebrations. Equally important is planning the menu for the feast, as New Year’s Eve is not just a holiday but also a culinary marathon.

Preparing traditional New Year dishes has become an integral part of Russian culture. Salads, appetisers, main courses, desserts, and drinks – every element of the festive meal has its own story. Which dishes have become enduring symbols of New Year in Russia, and how did they win the hearts of the nation?

Olivier Salad

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An indispensable feature of the New Year’s table in Russia is Olivier Salad, also known in some countries as “Russian Salad.” Its history dates back to the mid-19th century, when French chef Lucien Olivier worked at the Hermitage restaurant in Moscow. The dish he presented to his discerning clientele was unique: roasted hazel grouse, boiled crayfish tails, potatoes, lettuce leaves, olives, fresh cucumbers, truffles, and cubes of aspic – a rich meat jelly – were all combined and dressed with homemade Provencal mayonnaise mixed with a piquant soy-kabul sauce. Olivier kept the recipe a secret, but similar versions began appearing in cookbooks in subsequent decades, as the salad became so popular that it entered the menus of all elite dining establishments.

Over time, the recipe evolved, and by the mid-20th century, simplified versions emerged, such as the Stolichny Salad with chicken, potatoes, cucumbers, eggs, and crab, or meat salads with beef or tongue. Ingredients could be substituted as needed, making the dish accessible even during the product shortages of the 1980s. In winter, when fresh ingredients were hard to find, Olivier was reserved for major celebrations and eventually became a symbol of the New Year’s feast.

Herring under a fur coat

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The recipe for this dish was inspired by European fish salads of the 19th century, but the name “Herring under a fur coat” is uniquely Russian. According to legend, the prototype was a cold fish appetiser prepared in 1883 for the coronation of Alexander III – “Coronation gatchina trout under a fur coat.”

This layered salad, with herring as the base and potatoes, carrots, beets, onions, and mayonnaise layered on top, gained popularity in the Soviet Union due to its simplicity and affordability.

Aspic and jellied fish

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Aspic, also known as kholodets, is made from concentrated meat broths. Its exact origins are unknown, but it likely emerged in climates where cold temperatures could naturally preserve food. When meat stews were left to cool, they turned into a nutritious, jelly-like dish.

During the Soviet era, aspic became a staple of the New Year’s table, alongside Olivier Salad and Herring under a fur coat. However, in recent years, it has increasingly been replaced by other dishes. Younger generations often view aspic with scepticism, failing to share the fondness that made it a holiday favourite for older generations.

Jellied fish, on the other hand, became associated with New Year’s thanks to a famous line from the Soviet film The Irony of Fate: “What a disgusting thing, your jellied fish!”

Canapes with sprats, caviar, and red fish

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The New Year’s table is always brimming with appetisers, and among them, canapés hold a special place. Sprats, red caviar, and slices of lightly salted fish are ideal for festive hors d’oeuvres. This culinary tradition, like many others, originated in the Soviet era, when these delicacies symbolised luxury and celebration.

Tangerines

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For Russians, tangerines have long lost their connection to the sunny countries where they grow. These citrus fruits have become part of a winter fairy tale, their bright colour and aroma heralding the arrival of the New Year.

Until the 1960s, tangerines were a rare treat, available only in southern regions. This changed in 1963 with the arrival of the first cargo ship from Morocco. Since then, these African fruits have graced festive tables across the country. For Russians, the sweet scent of tangerines is an invisible signal: New Year is knocking at the door!

The magic of details: table decoration as a holiday ritual

The New Year’s table becomes the heart of the celebration thanks to its special decoration. Details  – from fir branches to the soft glow of candles  – transform an ordinary table into a symbol of warmth and festivity.

The information agency Omsk Zdes ("Here"), a partner of TV BRICS, advises choosing a specific style for New Year’s table decor (e.g., classic, rustic, minimalist, or boho) and sticking to a cohesive colour palette. It is also recommended to use tiered tableware and textiles in harmonising shades.

New Year is a time of miracles and family warmth, felt most strongly around the festive table. This is not just a place for dining but the centre of the celebration, where traditions come alive, heartfelt toasts are raised, and cherished wishes are made. The sparkling light of sparklers, the scent of fir branches and tangerines – all these elements create a magical atmosphere that brings people together.

Photo: iStock

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